Want to eat at a NY hotspot? Online reservations only
NEW YORK (AP) - April 12, 2008 So far, they've had little luck.
Ruth Reichl, editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, asked David
Chang for the hook up. Sorry, he told her. A former top Microsoft
executive asked too. Same answer: Nope. Chang even shut down a top
New York chef. Can't do it, he said.
"I've said no to a lot of people," Chang said. "We are not
making exceptions. If my parents want to eat there, they have to
make a reservation too. It's really quite simple. If we do it for
one person, we'd have to do for everybody."
Chang has caused a stir in New York, instituting an online
reservation system for tiny Ko's 12 counter seats. It's meant to
level the playing field in a city where money and prestige usually
ensure access.
"It's egalitarian," he says. "We want to run something
honest."
The only way to land a spot is to log on to Ko's Web site,
create an account, register with a credit card and take a shot at
finding an empty space on a bingo-like grid. Seats are released at
10 a.m. everyday for the current seven-day period.
Some have succeeded - even repeatedly - at eating at Ko, with
its $85 tasting menu which emphasizes French and Asian cooking. But
there are no moments for indecision - you have to click on a green
arrow the moment you see it - and luck seems to play a big part.
It was "a total lark," said Ian Volner, 26, who snared a 6
p.m. reservation on the very same day he logged on - for the first
time - about 8:30 a.m.
"I spent the afternoon desperate to get a date," he said.
Michael Cabin and two of his classmates at Columbia Law School
had been trying to get a reservation at Ko shortly after it opened.
During administrative law class, they used their laptops and
repeatedly tried to hit the jackpot.
About a week ago in class - bingo! Cabin, 24, got one for four
people.
Was it worth the hassle? "Totally," Cabin said.
Most, though, have failed.
Reichl got a chance to eat at the restaurant before it
officially opened, and tried to secure another seat. She said on
her blog that she was turned down, calling her trip there a "last
supper."
New York Times food critic Frank Bruni even blogged about it
earlier this month, expressing his frustration and amusement. "If
you want to eat at Ko, you must muster real commitment," Bruni
wrote. "And you could wind up committed."
Adam Platt of New York magazine, who awarded the restaurant four
stars, decided that because of the difficulty in getting into Ko,
he'd only be eating there once before writing his review.
"Under these trying conditions, getting in the door once, let
alone the three times most critics prefer, could take months or
even years," he wrote.
Yes, eating at Ko has become "mission impossible," flummoxing
foodies and Chang devotees who long to try his third restaurant in
the East Village and perhaps the best of the trio.
Chang said he set up his own online system, in part, because his
650-square-foot place is so small. And, he said, he didn't want
Peter Serpico, the chef and partner at Ko, wasting his time
"trying to play favorites."
The seemingly exclusive system has brought its share of
headaches.
Somebody hacked into the reservation system the first time it
went online, causing it to crash. There were also incidents
involving scalpers - people who scored reservations and were trying
to sell them.
"I ... loathe reservation scalpers," he said. "I'd take a bat
to their head if I could. You can quote me on that."
Chang apologizes for any grief he has caused, calling the buzz
over Ko's opening and the reservation system "insane."
"It wasn't the intent to make people frustrated," he said.
"It was just something we thought would be easier. Why would we
need a phone? People have the Internet. At the end of the day, it's
a silly, silly reservation system. But we have to be straight up.
We are trying our best to make some system work that is not
corruptible."
Yet in the competitive restaurant business, the survivors are
often those who take care of their repeat customers, assuring a
good table even on a night when there are ostensibly no
reservations.
Chang, who acknowledges he is bucking conventional wisdom, said
his fans can head to his other nearby spots, Momofuku Noodle Bar
and Momofuku Ssam Bar.
But what if the godfathers of food approached him - French
masters like Michel Bras, Pierre Gagnaire or Joel Robuchon?
Chang hesitated, and seemed to indicate a certain flexibility.
"If Michel Bras came in and wanted to eat ... what the hell are
we supposed to do?" Chang said. "That certainly causes more of a
dilemma. Those are the only people we'd actually consider."