Love and books in Bohemian New Orleans

SLIDELL, La. (AP) - August 7, 2008

The acts of rebellion take place in the bingo hall/senior center of Mount Olive African Methodist Church.

"This is boring!" cries Louise "Gypsy Lou" Webb.

The bingo hall is an unlikely place to find a woman who spent years painting and selling watercolors on the streets of the French Quarter and who represents one of the last people alive from the generation of artists and writers in the mid-1900s that made the Quarter an American version of the Left Bank.

Webb flips her bingo cards over, calling it quits. She wants to talk. Or perhaps play Monopoly. Whatever. Do something else - anything but kill another morning with bingo.

"Ah, gee, what a life!" Webb exclaims, drawing shushes and growls from the bingo players. "Oh, hell, you'd think I had sinned! I don't belong here." But she'll be back tomorrow. After all, even the squares in this bingo hall love her. ---

Sixty-nine years ago, Louise Madaio, a raven beauty of Neapolitan heritage, eloped with a convict writer and rich-kid bad boy, Jon Edgar Webb. They never looked back.

As chance would have it, the lovers from Cleveland made their way to New Orleans by bus in 1940. He wanted escape from a marriage to an unfaithful alcoholic. She wanted to see the world. Until Jon Webb's death in 1971, their life was an odyssey as itinerant artists and underground publishers through the heart of American Bohemia - the Quarter, Greenwich Village, Hollywood.

The Outsider journal and Loujon Press, their crowning achievements, were publications unlike anything else in their day. Printed in the 1960s on hand-cranked presses with fine-quality paper, they were elaborate affairs. Although there were only four magazines and four books, they cultivated a roster of greats: Kenneth Patchen, Henry Miller, Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac, William S. Burroughs.

And what is most important, they gave the world Charles Bukowski, the king of boozy and sexually charged underground poetry, with the publication in 1963 of Bukowski's first full-length book, "It Catches My Heart in Its Hands."

Now destitute and with no home of her own, Gypsy Lou lives in her sister's dog-eared home in Slidell, where she's existed in a sort of exile for the past two decades. On this day, she sits on the sofa, clutching a watercolor of her husband, one of the few physical memories she has left of him. "A lot of those people in the Outsider - never heard of them," she says. "So he'd give them a break. Publish them. That was a real humanitarian. He connived but he did it for a good cause."

Gypsy Lou, who lives on $208 a month from Social Security, resists what life has become in Slidell, where her sister invited her to live when Lou fell seriously ill 20 years ago.

The routine is life-denying: Bingo in the morning, a nap in the afternoon, TV at dusk and early to bed. Plus, the two sisters bicker. Their animosity was cemented when her sister refused to let Lou bury Daisy, a terrier mix, in the back yard. Instead, animal control came with a galvanized can to throw Daisy in.

Lou lives in a tiny room in a her sister's small, cluttered ranch-style home. The house feels like it hasn't left the 1980s with floral wallpaper, plastic glasses, a sofa that sags. Slidell, a bedroom community for New Orleans, was named after a Confederate politician. The old part of Slidell is a typical Louisiana small town with live oaks, magnolia trees and shotgun homes with porches.

So, this is her life - half forgotten in the glades of suburban America, yet not.

The Webbs have become the subject of a low-budget documentary, "The Outsiders of New Orleans," and a biography, "Bohemian New Orleans." At the senior center, they've taken to calling Lou, who recently had a book signing and film premiere, their very own celebrity.

"It is a story about publishing, but at its core it is a love story," Jeff Weddle writes of the Webbs in "Bohemian New Orleans: The Story of the Outsider and Loujon Press."

"They were chronically short of money, and had one disaster after another in their print shop: It flooded; the roof caved in. They would move from city to city with all this heavy equipment; they made life very hard on themselves," said John Martin, founder of Black Sparrow Press and Bukowski's publisher after he left the Webbs.

"They didn't disappear because they weren't doing good work. They finally collapsed under the strain of it."

And their books and journals - most typeset and bound by hand - have become cult classics. Their final works involved extravagant publications of Henry Miller's "Order and Chaos Chez Hans Reichel" and "Insomnia, or the Devil at Large," in 1970-71

"At the time, it was all mimeographed presses and here comes someone who does letter press and charges three bucks for the thing," said Edwin Blair, a friend of the Webbs and book collector. "The problem with Jon was that he got carried away. The last book he did was so over the top that it's a tour de force."

Printing books, though, was only half the story. The other half was about making money.

For about 19 years, Gypsy Lou sold watercolors and other items to support her husband's passion for publishing. As one of the best loved characters in the Quarter, Noel Rockmore, the artist known for his haunting jazz paintings, made her a larger-than-life muse in his 1970 work, "Homage to the French Quarter." The painting depicts dozens of the Quarter's most colorful people.

The painting is a portal into this Bohemia on the Mississippi, a constant source of nostalgia for New Orleanians who despair at the state of today's tacky, gentrified Quarter.

It was a place where Ruthie the Duck Lady - the cigarette-puffing woman on roller skates - led ducks on leashes. And there was Mike Stark, the red-bearded muumuu-draped Baptist minister-turned-hippie-turned-mask maker. And Larry Borenstein, the art dealer who founded Preservation Hall, the jazz club.

For her part, Lou Webb was the queen of this Bohemia. Dressed in billowing skirts, berets and yellow cowboy boots, one journalist said she looked like a gypsy. So, she started calling herself "Gypsy Lou."

"Everyday. Never took a vacation. Rain, cold, hot, sweating, everything, out there. I used to bring my dog out, Big Gypsy - big collie dog. I loved her," she says.

She had a natural talent for street sales. At her stand, she posted a list of celebrities - presidents, musicians, actors - who owned a Gypsy Lou watercolor. Sure enough, the "normal people, stupid people" would want one, too.

Gimmicks worked. Her outlandish clothes were one. And she grabbed passers-by with a plywood board she hung up. It read: "If you're lost or want to get lost tack what you wish on this board." Of course, she added her own notes to get things started.

Once, she bartered with a well-dressed man on the price for clowns she'd strung up on the wall. The man eventually got his way, getting the price for two clowns down by a dollar.

When she went next door to the Coffee Pot, the owner was beside himself.

"He said, 'Gypsy! Boy, you talked terrible to that man that bought those clowns,"' she recalls. "I said, 'Yeah, what's the matter? He was well dressed and everything. He had the $5. He gave me $4.' He said, 'But do you know who he was?' I said, 'I don't give a damn who he was. He was a cheap skate if you ask me.'

"Guess who it was? The president of Mexico with his two body guards!" She cracks up.

Even stooped from age, Lou cannot sit still. She moves to and fro, her hands, stiff like paddles. She pats her dress, adjusts her beret, touches the arm of a companion. Her face, too, is never still. It's a series of expressions: She feigns mock astonishment by throwing her shoulders back; narrows her eyes to slits to express suspicion; sets her face in a cold intelligent stare and the hundreds of lines and indentations of her jowls and brow remind you she is, despite her playfulness and verve, a very old woman. ---

She turns the watercolor of Jon in her hands toward the light.

"Oh, you rascal you," she says. "He was a con man. Man, was he good. He knew how to manipulate."

In his boyhood in the 1920s, she recalls, he hitch hiked from Cleveland to Wyoming dressed in a Boy Scout's uniform and knocked at farm houses along the way.

"First, he'd find out what religion they were; and if they were Baptists, he'd say he was a Baptist; and they'd take him in, feed him, even give him money; if people would say they were Seventh-day Adventists, he would say he was a Seventh-day Adventist."

"I've got this picture now hanging up, facing me in the bed. I see him a lot now," she says, her thoughts lingering on Jon - the man she literally ate out of raw, unconventional love.

When he was cremated, she wore his ashes around her neck and, occasionally, ate the ashes and bits of bone.

"People would say, 'What are you doing?' 'I'm putting him in my body,"' she says. "It's out of my body now, a long time. I have no more ashes. What am I going to do? Well, anyway."
Copyright © 2024 WPVI-TV. All Rights Reserved.