Dining with a mix of comfort and adventure

UNIVERSITY CITY - January 26, 2012

It's a beer-loving place, with 72 taps and a rotating assortment of brews. But the kitchen constantly turns out beer-friendly dishes priced so a college crowd can visit regularly.

New this year, themed nights Monday through Saturday, so you always know what sort of specials to expect.

Yet, within that context, choices change weekly so you're not getting the same meal every visit.

Executive Chef Ralph Kane came up with the concept, designed to keep both diners and his staff excited.

Mondays always feature something Southern-style..one of his personal favorite ways of cooking. It's heavy on Cajun and Creole seasonings.

Tuesdays, it's Game Night, when you might find rabbit, or squab, or venison sausage, for example.

On Wednesday, you'll find the Weekly Roast. A carving station might be serving up leg of lamb, or whole suckling pig, or prime rib.

Thursdays honor "Homesick Texans", with a homemade sauce lending sweet and smoky flavors to something grilled.

Fridays, "On The Hook" promises something from the sea, perhaps a whole fish from a local purveyor. And Saturdays, the kitchen features "CTH Steak", with a rotating selection of prime cuts of beef.

When appropriate, the chef provides his "take" on an accompanying sauce. On our visit, he produced an intensified version of the classic Sauce Bordelaise, and ladled that over e generous Filet Mignon.

Dishes that sell well are likely to return often. Those which sell consistently well may be moved to the every-day menu. But you can always know what to expect based on the day of the week...familiar, yet ever-changing.

Given the location, City Tap House prices its dishes so the university crowd can visit frequently, not just when parents are in town to pay for a treat. The dinner specials are available on their featured night from 5:00 to 10:00pm.

The general lunch/dinner menu offers appetizers, burgers, brick-oven pizza, mussels and platters. There's also brunch on weekends.

City Tap House is open weekdays at 11:30am until 2:00am; weekend 11:00am until 2:00am. The kitchen closes Sunday through Thursday at 10:00pm, and 11:00pm Friday and Saturday nights. For information or reservations, phone 215-662-0105, or go online to City Tap House.

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