CENTER CITY Wildlife experts monotor the migration to be sure enough fish get upstream to their spawning grounds, then open the waterways to fishermen. Among the most prized is Coho salmon from Alaska, and it's on the menu right now at Oceanaire Seafood Room, 700 Walnut Street in Center City. The fish is grilled, and offered in raw preparations like tartare and sashimi. Oceanaire is open nightly for dinner. Coho salmon will be served as long as the season lasts - only a few weeks at most. For information, phone the restaurant at 215-627-8862, or visit the Oceanaire website.
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