We head to Little Walter's, a brand new spot in the city's Kensington section, where the chef/ owner wants you to be fully immersed in Polish culture: from the food to the cocktails, the customs and even the language.
"Little Walter's is actually named after my grandfather on my mother's side," says Michael Brenfleck. "He really introduced me to Polish food."
At Little Walter's, Brenfleck is serving the crowned culinary jewels of his culture. That includes the pierogi.
The Dish: Pierogi Ruskie from Little Walter's in Kensington
"We make everything for it in house," he says.
Brenfleck has been working in restaurants across the city since 2005.
Little Walter's is his first solo venture.
"I kind of looked all over the city for a location," he says. "Being closer to the Polish neighborhoods was definitely on my mind."
Brenfleck opened the doors this summer and he's really feeling the love.
"The best compliment is when people come in and say that the pierogi are better than their grandmother's," he says. "It's also a lot of a lot of feeling of 'home.' I think they kind of feel and taste that in our food."
Your meal also comes with a Polish language lesson, with translations across the menu.
Brenfleck grew up in the Lehigh Valley, but visited the homeland to make sure each bite here is authentic.
"Being born in America, I didn't really know too much about Poland ," he says. "I got the opportunity to visit Poland to really immerse myself in it."
The drink menu is also a toast to Poland.
That includes a pickle martini. It's Brenfleck's answer to a dirty martini.
"I do love olive martinis," he says. "But pickle martinis are more Polish, for sure."
Now, we're making his Pierogi Ruskie, which is filled potato and farmer cheese. It's the basic, rustic pierogi and it starts with a potato dough.
"The dough itself has potato, egg yolk, whole eggs and bread flour," Brenfleck explains. "We actually use the whey from the farmer cheese to try to not waste."
You can use cottage cheese or make the farmer cheese yourself.
"All you actually have to do is heat up milk, and then you add some vinegar to it and that will separate it," he explains.
No surprise here, the filling also has more potato.
"We put some confit garlic in there to give it some seasoning, as well as lots of salt and black pepper," Brenfleck explains.
Next, it's time to stuff that dough.
"All you have to do is you put a little of the filling into the middle, bring it together first to make sure the filling is inside, and then you're going to squeeze both sides," he says. "One hand is going to come down and one is going to go up to stretch it and make a zigzag shape."
Once they're crimped and ready, gently drop them into boiling, salted water and cook them until they float.
Drain them, let them cool to room temperature and then refrigerate.
"We chill it down completely," Brenfleck says. "That'll make sure they are really set."
Once they are cooled, they can hit the hot grill or griddle.
"We're going to toss a little oil on there so they don't stick to the grill and then we're going to put them on and give them a little press so they get a nice, even sear," he says.
Once they're done, finish them off with melted butter and caramelized onions - and sour cream, of course.
Finish it off with a little chopped dill and eat them hot!
Pierogi Ruskie recipe from Little Walter's
Farmers cheese recipe:
** Can substitute with cottage cheese if you don't want to make your own
Ingredients:
- 3 and 2/3 cup Milk
- 1/8 cup cider vinegar
Directions:
1. In a sauce pan, heat milk over medium heat.
2. When milk reaches 180 degrees, add vinegar and stir gently
3. Curds will begin separate. Let stand for 15 minutes
4. Strain through cheese cloth
5. Cool curds before using
6. Reserve whey for pierogi dough
Pierogi dough recipe:
Ingredients:
- 3 cups of bread flour
- 2/3 cup potato puree
- 2 egg yolks
- 1 whole egg
- 1 cup whey reserve from cheese
Directions:
1. Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl.
2. Stir on low speed with dough hook until dough forms
3. Turn to medium heat and knead for 10 minutes
4. Let dough rest for 30 minutes before rolling
Ruskie filling recipe:
Ingredients:
- 4 cups potato puree
- 8 cloves of garlic to confit
- 1 cup butter
- 1 cup farmers cheese
- 1 tablespoon black pepper
- 1 tablespoon salt
Directions:
1. To prepare potato puree, peel and large chop yukon gold potatoes
2. Place potatoes in a pot with cold water over high heat. Boil until potatoes are soft and fall apart when squeezed gently
3. Strain potatoes and press through a mesh strainer or potato ricer
4. Add butter to potatoes while they are still warm and stir until all butter melts
5. Add remaining ingredients and mix well to combine
How to build your pierogi:
1. Using a dough roller or rolling pin, roll pierogi dough to 1/8" thick
2. Cut 3" circles with a ring cutter. Place a 2 oz scoop of filling in the center of the circle
3. Fold the dough over the filling and press the edges together
4. Using both thumbs and forefingers pinch the edges together and pull both hands in opposite directions to create flute
5. Repeat this crimping motion 6 times, moving along the edge of the pierogi
6. Place pierogi with the crimp pointing up on a flour tray and refrigerate for at 30 minutes to set
7. Place pierogi in salted boiling water and cook until they float.
8. Remove the pierogi from the water and place on an oiled tray. Let cool before cooking
Directions for plating:
1. Add cooking oil to a cast iron pan and place over high heat
2. Place pierogi in the pan and sear on both sides and the base
3. Place pierogi in a bowl and add 1 oz of melted butter and a tablespoon of caramelized onions
4. Toss to coat pierogi, then spoon onto a plate
5. Finish dish with a dollop of sour cream and pinch of chopped dill