Record year for French wine industry
PARIS (AP) - February 20, 2008 France sent nearly 9.4 billion euros, or about $13.8 billion,
worth of wines and spirits abroad in 2007, an increase of nearly 7
percent year-on-year, the French Federation of Wine and Spirits
Exporters announced Wednesday.
Growth in China more than doubled to nearly 247 million euros
($364 million) worth of alcohol. The country of 1.3 billion people,
and a growing middle class discovering a taste for wine and already
fond of cognac, was the 11th-largest market by value for French
wines and spirits in 2007. Barely a decade ago, wine buyers'
choices outside of the poshest hotels, restaurants or stores were
mostly limited to Chinese-made rot-gut.
The growth in sales of French cognac and other spirits to China
was equally explosive last year: Also more than doubling
year-on-year by value, making China the third-largest market,
trailing only the United States and Singapore.
French Champagne had a cork-popping year, too, with more than
147 million bottles exported in 2007, a nearly 5 percent increase
from 2006. By value, Champagne's performance was even more
impressive: the leading French wine-producing region, its exports
were worth 2.36 billion euros ($3.48 billion), a bubbly 10.4
percent surge year-on-year. Bourgogne, with a 21.5 percent leap in
export value, Cotes du Rhone, with 10.1 percent, and Bordeaux, with
8.8 percent, also had reason to cheer. Beaujolais, however, left a
sour taste, tumbling nearly 9 percent.
But 2008 may not be so rosy. The strength of the euro compared
to the U.S. dollar makes French wines and spirits more expensive in
the United States, still France's largest market by value despite
an estimated 3 percent year-on-year decline in exports across the
Atlantic in 2007. The toughening economic climate in the United
States could further dent sales in 2008, the exporters' federation
said.
Champagne exports to the United States already fell by nearly 7
percent in value and nearly 6 percent in volume in 2007.
The good overall export performance also masks a broader crisis
for France's wine industry. While Champagne and fine Bordeaux find
overseas markets, lower-quality wines and lesser-known wine regions
have struggled against competitors from New World countries such as
Australia, Chile and the United States.
The French also drink less wine than they used to, and have been
forced toward moderation by tough campaigns against drunk-driving
in recent years.
Chronic overproduction has also hurt, forcing European producers
- and not just those making cheap plonk - who can't sell their wine
at decent prices to distill billions of bottles of perfectly
drinkable wine into pure alcohol for use in disinfectants, cleaning
products or gasoline additives.
The European Union agreed in December on a massive overhaul of
the industry, including tearing up swaths of vineyards, doing away
with overly intricate labeling and reaching out to consumers around
the world instead of relying on age-old reputations.
China is among the regions where France's wine reputation still
carries clout, and Chinese investors are following in the footsteps
of those from Japan and the United States in starting to buy French
vineyards.
A company from Qingdao, a port city on China's eastern seaboard
that is famed for its beer, reportedly paid close to $3 million in
January for a Bordeaux-producing chateau, outbidding a countess
from Luxembourg and other potential buyers from Malta and Belgium.
The seller of the Chateau Latour-Laguens, Serge Laguens, told Le
Figaro daily that his two children weren't interested in keeping
the vineyards that had been in their family for two generations.
Proud of its new purchase, the Chinese company now calls itself
"Latu-Lagan" in Chinese, and says some of the Bordeaux it
produces will go to China. It won't reveal how much it paid for the
chateau but said it plans to hire winemakers and experts to improve
the wine, currently an ordinary Bordeaux.
"Chinese consumers have an increasingly clear awareness of
wine," the firm, Latour-Laguens (Qingdao) International Wine Co.
Ltd., said in an e-mailed response to questions from The Associated
Press. "We bought the chateau to introduce genuine French chateau
wine to China and spread the culture of wine."