Armani suit makes a comeback
MILAN, Italy (AP) - January 20, 2009 The 2009-2010 winter collection, presented Tuesday, marked the
return of the `Armani suit' as the focal point of his show. The
classically tailored jacket and trousers became a must for the
well-turned out man after the designer dressed Richard Gere for the
1980 movie "American Gigolo."
The look was brought up to date by a softer cut and a subtle
combination of fabrics and colors, which the designer says avoids
the confusion between classic style and a "boringly traditional
look."
The latest Armani suit comes in classic pinstripes and
traditional grays, but also in cozy velvet with detailing on the
lapel. At times a scarf replaces the shirt, while a furry vest
further avoids monotony.
Earlier Tuesday, the last day of the Milan menswear fashion
week, the Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten presented their
Dsquared2 collection in a worthy show.
Entitled "The show must go on," an allusion to the state of
the world economy, the designers opened the show with a couple in
evening dress dancing down a ballroom staircase to 1930's swing
music, followed by male models dressed in the latest styles.
These included smoking jackets worn with distressed jeans and
black and white spats, multicolored dinner jackets for daytime, and
lots of leather vests with fur trimming. The new carryall can be
comfortably hinged to the back of a jacket.
Also Tuesday, the Dolce & Gabbana designing duo presented their
second line D&G winter collection. Here, too, the theme was a mixed
bag of old and new.
Their contemporary dandy likes his jackets refined - in brocade
or printed velvet - his pants distressed and his footwear
embroidered in gold.
Who knows how the father of all dandies, Oscar Wilde, depicted
on the invitation as the "host" of the show, would take to the
new look?
Overall Milan's four-day round of preview showings played it
safe for next winter. Models resembled the boy next door, there was
little experimental fashion and the color palette was bland, even a
tad dull.
Overcoats made a big comeback, replacing the more macho leather
jacket. Suits were everywhere. The new trouser was slim with a high
waist, and the jacket was small.
Accessories continued to be the luxury products, with crocodile
being the favorite leather for new oversized carryalls for men.
Footwear was either sturdy and classic, or dainty with a very
pointed toe - the most innovative look of the season.