Armani suit makes a comeback

January 20, 2009 2:55:51 PM PST
Consummate tailor that he is, Giorgio Armani knows a guy can't live without a suit. So what better way to combat the current global recession than to offer a man the best of what he needs. The 2009-2010 winter collection, presented Tuesday, marked the return of the `Armani suit' as the focal point of his show. The classically tailored jacket and trousers became a must for the well-turned out man after the designer dressed Richard Gere for the 1980 movie "American Gigolo."

The look was brought up to date by a softer cut and a subtle combination of fabrics and colors, which the designer says avoids the confusion between classic style and a "boringly traditional look."

The latest Armani suit comes in classic pinstripes and traditional grays, but also in cozy velvet with detailing on the lapel. At times a scarf replaces the shirt, while a furry vest further avoids monotony.

Earlier Tuesday, the last day of the Milan menswear fashion week, the Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten presented their Dsquared2 collection in a worthy show.

Entitled "The show must go on," an allusion to the state of the world economy, the designers opened the show with a couple in evening dress dancing down a ballroom staircase to 1930's swing music, followed by male models dressed in the latest styles.

These included smoking jackets worn with distressed jeans and black and white spats, multicolored dinner jackets for daytime, and lots of leather vests with fur trimming. The new carryall can be comfortably hinged to the back of a jacket.

Also Tuesday, the Dolce & Gabbana designing duo presented their second line D&G winter collection. Here, too, the theme was a mixed bag of old and new.

Their contemporary dandy likes his jackets refined - in brocade or printed velvet - his pants distressed and his footwear embroidered in gold.

Who knows how the father of all dandies, Oscar Wilde, depicted on the invitation as the "host" of the show, would take to the new look?

Overall Milan's four-day round of preview showings played it safe for next winter. Models resembled the boy next door, there was little experimental fashion and the color palette was bland, even a tad dull.

Overcoats made a big comeback, replacing the more macho leather jacket. Suits were everywhere. The new trouser was slim with a high waist, and the jacket was small.

Accessories continued to be the luxury products, with crocodile being the favorite leather for new oversized carryalls for men.

Footwear was either sturdy and classic, or dainty with a very pointed toe - the most innovative look of the season.