Humble roots to high-end dining: Fong on Tofu in Chinatown

ByLucy Yang Localish logo
Tuesday, September 24, 2024 3:44PM
Humble roots to high-end dining: Fong on Tofu in Chinatown
Fong On Tofu at 81 Division Street in Chinatown is the oldest, family-run tofu shop in the area.

CHINATOWN Manhattan -- Every morning begins with grinding, cooking, and turning billions of little soybeans into delicious and freshly pressed tofu.

"There's nothing like fresh tofu," said Paul Eng, Owner, Fong On Tofu.

Fong On Tofu at 81 Division Street in Chinatown is the oldest, family-run tofu shop in the area.

Eng's grandfather started there in 1933. In fact, the store is named after him, which means "grand peace."

Then his father took over, and then his older brothers.

But, Eng wanted nothing to do with the family business. So he studied architecture, played guitar in a band, and even moved to Russia to pursue photography.

There he married, had his first child, and that's when the heart string and the practical need to feed his family pulled him all the way back to the place he had left: Fong On Tofu.

By then, his brothers had retired and shut down the store. So, Eng came up with some new recipes, modernized the process, survived the crippling pandemic and gave new life to his family's legacy.

He said he's proud of what he's done.

Their warm tofu can be served with a sweet or savory topping

Of course, success for any one business is good for the whole community as it brings in more tourists and customers to this endearing and enduring neighborhood.

"Chinatown should be just as valuable as any other neighborhood or cuisine, group of people, the only way we're going to survive," Eng said.

In addition to retail sales, Fong On now sells wholesale to Michelin-star restaurants like 11 Madison. From humble roots to high-end dining, this family business is ready for the next 100 years.