Le Virtu specializes in the cuisine of Abruzzo, the central Italian province wedged between mountain and coastal regions. Geography puts Abruzzese chefs in position to draw from the nest the entire country if Italy has to offer.
Ironically, it's rarely visited by tourists, although a taste of the cuisine might make you ready to book a trip. Executive chef Joe Cicala went trhere to research his recipes. Today, friends from Abruzzo contact him on social media to rave about what he creates.
Cicala makes what he calls peasant food, some of it from centuries-old roots. His Maccheroni all Mugnaia is made from the simplest pasta dough you can imagine...hard work for the chef because it doesn't handle easily.
He buys locally-sourced meats from noted Italian Market butcher Sonny D'Angelo. Rabbits are bred to his specifications, giving just the right hint of wild flavor to the meat he cooks. And he buys whole pigs, not cuts.
This can save a chef money but again, it's a lot of work/ for you, the diner, it means getting flavors not widely available, because the harder--to-use parts end up in stocks, soups and sauces.
It's all old-world style. In addition to flat pastas, the chef turns out homemade ravioli in two sizes. Le Virtu has a full bar, but on Tuesday nights, customers are welcome to bring their own wine of they choose, and that night, there is no corkage fee.
They also host community events from time to time. One on January 19th will feature an outdoor soup festival, a fundraiser for the needy, in which everyone will enjoy homemade pasta e fagoli, the classic soup. An Italian folk band will perform live that evening. Hours will be 5:00 to 8:00pm.
Le Virtu is located at 1927 E. Passyunk Avenue. just east of Broad street, open nightly for dinner. You may phone them for reservations at 215-271-5626, or visit their website, Le Virtu.
